Tell me more about you.
Well, where should I start? My name is Bernhard Schwaiger, I´m 33 years old and live in Saalfelden / Maria Alm in Austria with my girlfriend Christina. I earn my money from teaching in a Polytechnic School which prepares pupils for their skills. Apart from climbing and bouldering I like powder skiing in winter, biking and swimming in summer and a lots more …
What model and brand was your 1st climbing shoes?
I think it was a, a very stiff and uncomfortable “Hangwag” for alpine climbs.
What is the best place in the world for bouldering?
I think there are many. It depends on what you prefer. Definitely a place where you find your favourite type of climbing. For me crimps in overhangs in a nice surrounding with friendly people …
In how many countries did you went climbing?
I don’t know exactly – not so many – more than ten or something like that.
Where and why did you start climbing?
We basically started climbing because of our Dad. He did a lot of alpine climbs when he was young. We grew up in the mountains and therefore we did a lot of easy alpine climbs with him when we where children. We were really enthusiastic and liked it a lot. As a consequence of this we wanted to become better, we wanted to climb harder routes …
Have you ever taken part in the Climbing World Cup?
No. We competed in the Austrian Bouldering Champs a long time ago. Although our result wasn’t bad we found it a bit too dogged, some sort of strange, too much rivalry. I always wanted to climb outdoors – nature is a very important part of climbing for me. Climbing on what nature created is much more fascinating than climbing on artificial holds and boulders created by people!
What do you think about bouldering as sport in Olympic Games?
Nice idea, for sure! Maybe I should start competing again … ;)
Do you often climb in gym?
Only if weather makes it absolutely impossible to climb outdoors – not too often. Being out there in nature is the best. For instance I also climb outdoors in winter with several degrees below zero – very cold but good for the friction as well.
Did you ever train for a specific project?
Not really – working on the problem itself is the best training anyway – I think. Sometimes if climbing outdoors is absolutely impossible I do some “self composed” training exercises to keep or increase my maximum power.
Who do you admire?
Peaceful, honest, friendly and open minded people!
What was the last book you read?
“Ein Tag in meinem Leben” from Felix Gottwald, the double Olympic champion in the Nordic combined, with whom I visited the same class at a school in Saalfelden somewhere around twenty years ago.
What music do you listen?
Depends on the mood. Mostly (Hard)Rock, …
What do you think about solo climbing?
Definitely the mentally most challenging discipline of climbing and therefore very interesting.
What is a highball for you? At what height it begins to be a highball?
I don´t know – hard to say. Maybe somewhere around higher than 5 meters? For example 5 meters above ground can be really challenging while 10 meters could be rather “relaxed”! For example I onsighted and first ascented a vertical and partly slightly overhanging 10 meter boulder on a beach in Calabria. I didn´t know how the holds where or if they were solid. The moves where rather easy but the crux (with some “uncomfortable” moves) was right at the end, as I knew afterwards. I didn´t have a spotter or a crashpad only a granite ground on the bottom of the boulder. So this was quite a mental thrill. Everyone must decide weather if he climbs a problem or not – if you feel save – concerning on what your mind says – a crux 10 meters above a granite plate without any protection is no problem as well.
Was your progression fast or did it took years?
We worked hard and consequent for a lot of years in a row. Very often people don’t see the work or consequence behind success – this sometimes results in “not so nice” statements about your person or the things (how) you do. We had to make it on our own without any help or tips, making our own experiences.
Did you take part of a specific training to help your progression?
In the beginnings I and my brother trained like mad. We really wanted to become stronger and reach the top grades – the 10th UIAA grade at that time. With maximum consequence and enthusiasm we made it on our own – nobody helped us in anything. This makes me some sort of proud! Through the last years I developed and found a natural and systematic way to keep or even improve my shape and power with minimum effort but maximum effect. If time and weather allows I always climb outdoors, working on projects and so on …
What do you like to eat?
Almost everything, if it’s natural, fresh and doesn’t have too much fat. Pasta, wholegrain bread, chicken, beef and fish are my favourites!
What is your best meal at the crag?
Fat free roasted nuts, honey on some wholegrain bread and fruits.
Do you plan to climb all your life?
Well if my body and mind allow me to climb all my life, it would be a pleasure!
After Sharma, Nicole and Lamiche, would you like to design a climbing shoe?
Would definitely be very challenging and interesting – some ideas are already in my head/mind ;)
Why you never ask Evolv or others brands to create it?
Trying, correcting and developing is a rather long process, where I´m just at the beginning. I´m talking a lot with Evolv and they´re really open for everything and already included some «hints» in their models. It´s a really constructive cooperation. For me it´s not so important to see my name written on a model or what ever it’s the cooperation and interaction resulting in progress, which I like a lot. Maybe some time there will be a shoe completely made, designed by me.
Have you ever shaped holds?
Unfortunately, yes. About 15 years ago in a first ascent of one sportclimb on a crag, where every route was and still is artificial. It was at our beginning and we didn’t know a lot about climbing or even ethics. In this time ethics in climbing didn’t exist in the way as they do now – manipulating routes and holds was a common sense, as many still existing “artificial” routes proof. We thought it was ok, somehow only did, what everybody did, wanted to try it out as well. It was the one and only “sin” we’ve ever made in climbing I think. We immediately realised the mistake we’ve made – the inspiration and “right” feeling about he new line was completely missing. We felt very sorry and never did it again, never manipulated the rock in any artificial way any more! The inspiration and “right” enthusiastic feeling before trying to climb a line was back. To climb on the structures which nature created for us, is the real inspiration and fascination.
What is the "bad-ass" place to climb?
Every place where jealousy, envy, unfriendliness and lack of understanding take place or occur.
What is the best developments in climbing history?
Hm, maybe the idea of trying to climb a (hard) piece of rock – we somehow got and I’m still inspired by nature …
What item you don't want to forget to put in your bag before leaving to the crag?
… something to drink, chalk and my Evolves …
What do you thing about grades which always go up? Is it because the climbers become strongers or do we have to downgrade some classic lines?
I think the «inflation of grades» already was worse some years ago. It´s a fact that climbers are getting stronger these days. A lot of more people are climbing today, than years before as a consequence of this, the level must increase too.
But grading always is and will always be subjective, depending on personal preferences and so on. For example a climber sized 170 cm can´t know how the problem or move feels for a 190 cm tall person he can only estimate. There will always be some differences in grades, which is part of the business and also an important matter of development. In the future the «average» statements of the repeaters will show how hard a problem or route is.
There are still a lot of «older» hard and up to now unrepeated lines out there, so still something to do for the young and strong of the future.
Did you ever climb in USA? And why not? You never want to try Terremer or something like that?
Ten years ago I and my brother Hermann where on a trip in the USA for ten weeks, going from east to west and back. It was a combinaion of a climbing and sightseeing trip. We had a very good time and enjoyed it a lot. We visited some famous climbing areas at that time including Wild Iris, City of Rocks, Yosemite, American Fork, Logan Canyon, Red River Gorge.
We also wanted to visit Hueco but due to access problems it was completely shut down at that moment.
We climbed different routes up to 8b(+), for example «Blow of Death/Dead Souls» at American Fork and made boulders up to Fb 7C(+), for example «King Cobra» together with Alexander Huber at the third try in Yosemite.
Definitely I would like to return to the USA to try some of the testpieces there some of the boulders look really cool and might suit me. Hopefully time will allow some time in the future.
You did the first repetitions like Memento, Anam Cara and you did a lot of strong FA, but why was one of your problems never repeated? Is it because it's to hard? The access?
Well, I don´t know exactly. It´s definitely not the access! A lot of people know, where problems like Zunami or Flying Circus are. Those who don´t know, might have a look at our website www.schwaigerbrothers.com and/or contact me. I´ve already answered a lot of emails describing the locations in the past.
My repetitions of for example Memento and Anam Cara show, that I can also do hard problems of other climbers, even «rather fast» compared to the effort given to some of my first ascents. It seems that some of my (our) FA are «not so easy». For instance Klem Loskot tried Zunami and Flying Circus some years ago, but gave up rather fast, meaning not being able to do them.
Also other strong climbers know where the problems are and often talked about trying/visiting them!? I would really like to see a reapeat of one of our testpieces getting a confirmation or correction (down or even up) of the grade!
One reason for «non visiting» the Saalachtal might be the lack of a really huge amount of blocks. We´re definitely not comparable with Tessin or something like that. We don´t have the huge amount of boulder problems here, though it´s getting more and more.
What is the best climbing DVD?
… hard to say, as I only know a few of them!? I’m sure there are a lot of great movies out there.
Cookies or chips?
Both, depends on my varying gusto (sometimes salty, sometimes sweet)
Beer or wine?
Non of them, sometimes a “very small” glass of good red wine.
Do you consider yourself as a pro climber?
Definitely not! As I do have a profession with up to 40 hours per week, and I don’t earn the money for my life with climbing. Compared to many other climbers it’s “only” some sort of a serious hobby for me – considering the time I’m investing. It’s very nice though, that I can realise and climb some “not so easy problems” with the rather rare time I have for climbing – makes me some sort of proud again ;) …
What is your graduation status?
I´m a “Dipl. Päd. (Graduate Pedagogue)” for Polytechnic Schools and Secondary School. For nearly ten years I’m teaching in a Polytechnic School in the metal branch preparing pupils for their skills. It’s very nice to work with the future of our society, giving them something on their way, which they can use in future …
Crimps, slopes or pinch?
Crimps in overhangs is my favourite style of climbing.
Describe a memorable moment in your climbing experience.
Thank god I´ve had a lot; beside others the first ascents of some projects with extremely hard single moves near my home city and the first repetitions of "Memento" and "Anam Cara"; The important and beautiful thing is not only the achievement of a goal but also the process behind it or connected to it!
Any advises or suggestions?
Try to be a “good” human person and have fun in everything you do. Don’t take yourself to important or serious. Peace!
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