Hi Jason! Can you tell us more about you?
I have been climbing for 17 years and a professionally climber for 9 years. My addiction has always been for highball first ascents. The biggest most beautiful lines are the only ones that I want to climb. The grade is irrelevant, what inspires me has nothing to do with numbers and everything to do with visuals. Weather it’s the shape of the rock, the texture, the location or the unique movement. These are the things that draw me back every single time on this endless quest. Leave no stone unturned!
In current news: I had knee surgery about 5 months ago to fix an ACL issue that I had been dealing with for many years. The down time from climbing was a great opportunity for me to work on my video editing skills and expand my own line of climbing holds and t-shirts for CryptoChild. Now I am on the road to recovery, psyched to be fixed and enjoying the simple pleasure of just getting out. Check out some of my new gear and what I am up to at- www.cryptochild.com
What is the best place in the world for bouldering?
Maybe Fontainebleau, France and most places that have sandstone, it’s the best!
In how many countries did you go to climb?
Maybe 10 or more, mostly in Europe but also Japan and Peru.
Where and why did you start climbing?
I grew up in Maryland, where there isn’t much climbing, but I still climbed everything I could from trees to buildings, Once I got more into rock climbing I knew I needed to travel to really get the most out of it, This was a great reason to get out of Maryland.
What do you think about bouldering as sport in Olympic Games?
I used to think this was a great idea when I competed a lot, but know I’m having second thoughts. To me climbing is all about getting out and having new experiences, not spending another night in the gym training for a comp that everyone will have forgotten by time the next one comes around. Climbing to me has always been a individual sport and the homogenization that is taking place with the youth climbing competitions these days is pretty disturbing to me.
Do you often climb in gym?
I try to never these days. I have a wooden hangboard I made at my place, I would much rather workout on that than go to a gym.
Did you ever train for a specific project?
Not specifically, when I was working The Fly I incorporated some campusing into my routine. Climbing on real rock and staying fit with exercises that keep your body balanced is usually enough.
Who do you admire?
Anyone who is pushing their own personal limit.
What was the last book you read?
The 48 Laws of Power By Robert Greene
What music do you listen?
Loud Music!
What do you think about solo climbing?
It’s not worth it.
At what height it begins to be a highball?
For me a highball is any problem that seems dangerous. The height of a “highball” is different for everyone and it also depends on the landing.
Was your progression fast or does it takes years?
Pretty fast, once I dropped the baby fat.
Did you take part of a specific training to help your progression?
Mostly by traveling and climbing on as many types of rock as humanly possible. Experience is often better than training.
What do you like to eat?
Light and fresh, Asian and Southwest diet.
What is your best meal in a crag?
Onigiri. Its like a poor mans sushi roll, which is easy to make and high in protein.
Do you plan to climb all your life?
I hope to climb in one form or another my whole life.
After Sharma, Nicole and Lamiche, would you like to design a climbing shoe?
If I could actually design it myself for sure, but if a company just wants to put my name on a shoe they designed, no thanks.
Have you ever shape holds?
I have been shaping holds for 10 years, I currently shape holds for 5 different companies. So iLL Holds, Revolution Climbing, ETCH Holds, Ritual (from Spain) and my own company CryptoChild.
What is a "bad-ass" place to climb?
Southern Illinois, bad ass sandstone!
What are the best developments in climbing history?
Climbing shoes for sure, chalk and after that, I would have to say the crashpad, since isn’t that really all you need?
What item you don't want to forget to put in your bag before leaving to the crag?
My Assault Kit, always be prepared.
What is the best climbing DVD?
In general climbing DVD’s are pretty boring, but Josh Lowell and Big Up Productions are putting out some cool stuff.
Cookies or chips?
Chips
Beer or wine?
Sake
Do you consider yourself as a pro climber?
Yes, I have been climbing professionally for 8 years now.
What is your graduation status?
I graduated High School and then took every art classes in college until I had enough. Then I went off climbing.
Crimps, slopes or pinch?
All of the above.
Describe a memorable moment in you climbing experience.
Picture this, January 10th one of the nicest days in Hueco Tanks all season. I gathered an eager crew and headed out to the super secret, super mega project on South Mountain. We fought valiantly all day ripping at the rock, mashing our teeth and even foaming a little at the mouth. The breakthrough came after swimming through a rough sea of slopers when all of the sudden I found myself sticking the crux with a roar. It was basically over except for the very last move to the summit grip (which is just as hard as the hardest move on Everest, mind you) so I reached out stretching my finger to clutch the tight little undercling mono and then it happened…
I woke up and realized I had my finger up my ass.
What other than climbing do you like to do?
Other that climbing I also enjoy art, including sculpture photography, digital manipulation and I just recently got into video editing and animation. I also have been spending a lot of time lately trying to grow my company CryptoChild(www.cryptochild.com) I have a whole line of Tshirts and a couple sets of holds as of now and a new hangboard on the way. Check it out!
Any advises or suggestions?
Suffer for it!
Thanks Jason for this interview.
www.cryptochild.com
www.youtube.com/user/cryptoch1ld
www.myspace.com/crypto_child
www.vimeo.com/cryptochild
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