Questions for Wills Young, the man behing Bishop Bouldering Blog
What model and brand were your first climbing shoes?
EB.
What is the best place in the world for bouldering?
The best I know of is Bishop (California) for the quantity and the variety; the weather; the amazing scenery; the access to amenities; the access to the climbing, and the freedom to explore unimpeded. Right now, it is pretty much paradise.
In how many countries did you go to climb?
About 20, but mostly Europe. I only got to the top of five countries though, but amazingly, those include Ethiopia and Mozambique!
Where and why did you start climbing?
I began climbing in the Peak District of England. I enjoyed it, I felt challenged by it physically and mentally. To be a climber was to become part of a community with a rich world of characters and history.
Have you ever taken part in a Climbing World Cup?
I have been a spectator at many, but I have never taken part, not even close!
What do you think about bouldering as a sport in the Olympic Games?
Whether bouldering will be in the Olympics seems unlikely, but I don’t have a problem with the idea, even though such a sport would be very far removed from bouldering as I enjoy it! A drawback to the Olympic-type contest is that competitors cannot arrive freely to such an event--if you're not in your national team (for whatever reason) you don't go, even though you might be one of the top few competitors in the world. An Olympic-style event is not necessarily better than another type of event. Is an Olympic Tennis tournament better than a US Open or Wimbledon? The bottom line is that good prize money and good organization/facilities are what matter to athletes.
Do you often climb in a gym?
No.
Did you ever train for a specific project?
No.
Who do you admire?
As for climbers: Those who follow their hearts and try hard to achieve goals that truly inspire them.
What was the last book you read?
Snow Falling on Cedars
What music do you listen?
All kinds, but I generally prefer to listen to news programmes and talk.
What do you think about solo climbing?
Where a climber feels the risk is outweighed by the convenience, the urgency, or sometimes the pure thrill or sense of accomplishment, soloing is just one aspect of climbing that many, if not most climbers enjoy or employ from time to time. If someone wants to rise to a challenge for personal fulfillment, and personal accomplishment, good luck to them.
What is a highball for you? At what height will a climb begin to be a highball?
A highball is a boulder problem on which climbers do fall from, and where such falls are scary and perhaps a little dangerous due to the distance fallen and the landing. However, no particular height determines the designation: landing zones and use of pads both affect the fear factor. A climb considered a highball without pads, or with very few, may be considered as unremarkable when enough pads are used.
Was your progression fast or does it takes years?
Ha ha ha ... years and years, and I'm glad you used the past tense there!
Did you take part in any specific training to help your progression?
I've done all kinds of training over the years, but this is usually only when I'm not able to get out climbing.
What do you like to eat?
Not too picky really, but I'm partial to cake!
What is your best meal at a crag?
Bananas and oranges are my most frequent choice.
Do you plan to climb all your life?
I don't have a plan, so I don't plan to give up climbing.
After Sharma, Nicole and Lamiche, who would you like to design a climbing shoe?
Ha ha ... Probably Lisa Rands as she's sooo picky about having everything just right with her shoes and she's very observant! Sharma already designed a great shoe.
Have you ever shaped holds?
I presume you mean plastic holds for artificial climbing...? No.
What are the best developments in climbing history?
Without chalk I would climb almost nothing.
What item will you not want to forget to put in your bag before leaving for the crag?
Climbing shoes are hard to scam, as are food and water; but most other things you can get away with forgetting once in a while. I don't have a secret weapon though, sadly.
What is the best climbing DVD?
The Real Thing was pivotal in the bouldering scene, and Hard Grit was groundbreaking in its style: both are classic.
Cookies or chips?
Cookies except just before a meal, in which case chips.
Beer or wine?
Beer unless the wine is world-class.
Do you consider yourself as a pro climber?
No.
What is your graduation status?
University graduate.
Crimps, slopes or pinch?
Crimps are the only holds I can hang on to.
Describe a memorable moment in your climbing experience.
Fortunately, given my rapidly deteriorating mental abilities, I don’t need to rely on my memory too much: there are so many everyday moments when I'm out climbing that, when I pause to take them in, are truly moving and beautiful. One of the first days I ever went climbing, as a mid-teenager, a friend and I were pointing up at a big roof on the cliff above and laughing and joking about how, “some day we'll climb that,” knowing that climbing that roof would be humanly impossible as there were clearly no holds and it was horizontal! Still we liked to joke. Later that day I saw someone actually lead it, and I was completely dumbfounded. It was like I had witnessed a miracle.
What else than climbing do you like to do?
Relax.
Photos: Courtoisie de Toni Lamiche
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