Entrevue - Keita Mogaki

Hi Keita, can you tell me more about you and your past?
I`m Keita Mogaki and I come from Japon. I lived near Tokyo 2 years ago but now I live in Yamaguchi (600 miles west from Tokyo).
This place is very crowded but I like this town. I train alone because there not a lot of strong climbers around here. To keep me motivate, I take part of World Cup and go foreign crags around the world. I`m so happy, because this summer, I will go South Africa!

What model and brand was your 1st climbing shoes?
My 1 st shoes was La Sportiva Mythos

What is the best place in the world for bouldering?
Hueco!

In how many countries did you go to climb and name it?USA, Korea, China, Thailand, Malysia, Singapole, UK, Italy, France, Swiss, Austria, Slovenia, Spain, Germany and Nethelands.

Where and why did you start climbing?
I started in 1995. My father`s friends was climbers. I taught him.

Have you ever take part of Climbing World Cup?
Yes ,many times. Several years ago, I took 3rd place in sport and boulder.

What do you think about bouldering as sport in Olympic Games?
For sure. I hope climbing will become a major sport and everyone can enjoy it.

Do you often climb in gym?
Yes. Usually, I climb in gym weekday

Did you ever train for a specific project?
Sometimes. I always funclimbing!

Who do you admire?
Yuji Hirayama . He is a Rock Hero

Who is the climber who impresses you?
Chris Sharma.

What is the most spectacle problem had you climbed in your life?
Power of Landjager in Hueco Tank.

What was the last book you read?
I like reading book when I travel. The last book is dictionary! Right now at this moment!

What music do you listen?
I like The Killers and Mr Children (Japanese pop).

What do you think about solo climbing?
I think it is awesome. But, I don`t want to do it.

What is a highball for you? At what height it begins to be a highball?
Maybe 20 feet?.

Was your progression fast or does it takes years?
Many years. My progression was so slowly.

Did you take part of a specific training to help your progression?
Yes,I think so. It always has a goal.

What do you like to eat?
I like Pizza, and Japanese Sushis. Sweet!

What is your best meal in a crag?
Pringles!!

Do you plan to climb all your life?
Yes. If the body is healthy

After Sharma, Nicole and Lamiche, would you like to design a climbing shoe?
No, I leave it to the specialist.

Have you ever shape holds?
No, but there is very an interest.

What is the "bad-ass" place to climb?
Colorado.

What is the best development in climbing history?
Climbinghold.

What item you don't want to forget to put in your bag before leaving to the crag?
Jetboil!

What is the best climbing DVD?
Dosage1

Cookies or chips?
Chips !!

Beer or wine?
Wine!

Do you consider yourself as a pro climber?
Half and Half

What is your graduation status?
High school

Crimps, slopes or pinch?
Pinch!

Describe a memorable moment in you climbing experience.
Though one. When I flashed V13/8b, “La Danse du Balrog”. This problem is the first 8b in the world!

What else than climbing do you like to do?
I want to travel all over the world.

Any advises or suggestions?
Have a funclimb!! And see you somewhere!

Thanks Keita!!