It's a real pleasure to us to present you Jon Glassberg
Tell me about you and your past.
I grew up in Charlottesville, Virginia and learned how to climb at a small indoor gym there. I went to school in Boone, North Carolina for 7 years and studied Graphic Design and bouldered in the south a ton. I do a lot of graphic design, web design, photography, and video editing to pay the bills and I currently live in Boulder, Colorado. I have been setting for 8 years and climbing for 15, primarily bouldering but I have bone it all, big walls, aid, trad, sport, you name it, I have tried it.
My first pair of climbing shoes was a beautiful pair of bright blue, high top, La Sportiva Kaukulators. They don’t make them like that any more…
What is the best place in the world for bouldering?
I haven’t been to Europe, Africa, or really many places outside the US and Canada so I don’t really have the comparison to make a fair decision. The best places I have been in North America would definitely include Joe’s Valley, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hueco, and Squamish.
In how many countries did you go to climb?
I have only spent time in the US, Canada, and a little bit in South America. The goal for 2010 is to travel more and see what else is out there!
Where and why did you start climbing?
I started climbing in Charlottesville, Virginia in 1994 at a small gym called Rocky Top. Summer camp had me hooked and it snowballed from there.
Have you ever take part of Climbing World Cup?
No
What do you think about bouldering as a sport in the Olympic Games?
I think it is necessary for the sport to grow and the Olympics would generate a lot of interest in climbing. I am a huge supporter of the outdoor industry and I really want to see professional climbers be able to make a living not only as good climbers but as entrepreneurs in the industry.
Do you often climb in gym?
I set at The Spot Bouldering Gym in Boulder so at least 2 times a week but it ends up being a lot more in the winter to train for competitions and to get fit for bouldering outside.
Did you ever train for a specific project?
I have never trained for a specific project but I often work my weaknesses that are realized from failure on a certain boulder problem. I spent a lot of time this summer training long and crimpy roof problems in the gym to get fit for the boulders in Rocky Mountain National Park since nearly everything up there is that style. Pays dividends in the long run. Oh and don’t forget the core!
Who do you admire?
I admire climbers who can do more than just climb. When someone can be a good representative of climbing and also be able to talk to people, network, be creative, and know how to market themselves it really sets them apart. I also admire climbers who don’t climb for the grades but more so for the quality. If someone is climbing what they love, whether it is at their limit or not, at least they are doing what makes them happy.
What was the last book you read?
Guerrilla Marketing by Hay Conrad Levinson.
What music do you listen?
I like hip hop, electronic, indie, and that dirty south hood shit.
What do you think about solo climbing?
I have done a little bit here and there that was in my comfort range and I know why people love it and do it all the time. The feeling of being high and relying on your skill and experience to get you safely to the top is exhilarating. I’m going stick to highballs for now…
What is a highball for you? At what height does it become a highball?
That bar is constantly being raised. Highball for me is anything out of my comfort range and that will change for everyone. Some people are comfortable at 30 feet while others freak out at the most basic fall. I love to feel exposed and slightly scared, it makes the payoff that much better once you send!
Was your progression fast or does it takes years?
My progression was very slow at first but that had a lot to do with motivation. I climbed a lot but never trained for the first 8 or so years that I climbed. I started taking climbing seriously and focusing on the sport in the past 6 years and it has paid off. I climbed my first v10 in 2001 after 7 years and then progression was rapid for a few years and I hit a wall at v11. Just in the past couple years was I able to break that barrier and feel comfortable on harder boulders.
Did you ever train for a specific project?
I have never trained for a specific project but I often work my weaknesses that are realized from failure on a certain boulder problem. I spent a lot of time this summer training long and crimpy roof problems in the gym to get fit for the boulders in Rocky Mountain National Park since nearly everything up there is that style. Pays dividends in the long run. Oh and don’t forget the core!
Who do you admire?
I admire climbers who can do more than just climb. When someone can be a good representative of climbing and also be able to talk to people, network, be creative, and know how to market themselves it really sets them apart. I also admire climbers who don’t climb for the grades but more so for the quality. If someone is climbing what they love, whether it is at their limit or not, at least they are doing what makes them happy.
What was the last book you read?
Guerrilla Marketing by Hay Conrad Levinson.
What music do you listen?
I like hip hop, electronic, indie, and that dirty south hood shit.
What do you think about solo climbing?
I have done a little bit here and there that was in my comfort range and I know why people love it and do it all the time. The feeling of being high and relying on your skill and experience to get you safely to the top is exhilarating. I’m going stick to highballs for now…
What is a highball for you? At what height does it become a highball?
That bar is constantly being raised. Highball for me is anything out of my comfort range and that will change for everyone. Some people are comfortable at 30 feet while others freak out at the most basic fall. I love to feel exposed and slightly scared, it makes the payoff that much better once you send!
Was your progression fast or does it takes years?
My progression was very slow at first but that had a lot to do with motivation. I climbed a lot but never trained for the first 8 or so years that I climbed. I started taking climbing seriously and focusing on the sport in the past 6 years and it has paid off. I climbed my first v10 in 2001 after 7 years and then progression was rapid for a few years and I hit a wall at v11. Just in the past couple years was I able to break that barrier and feel comfortable on harder boulders.
Did you take part of a specific training to help your progression?
The best training is climbing, all the time. Training is necessary and if you can climb in the gym all the time and get outside and climb on rock all the time as well it will make you stronger.
What do you like to eat?
I love all food. I am a big guy so any food is good and lots of it! I cook a lot but my diet is not strict at all. Not a lot of junk food and not a whole lot of booze either… Seems to work.
What is your best meal at the crag?
pb&j, pretzles, and chocolate. The darker the better!
Do you plan to climb all your life?
Yes in some form or another. What happens in my life will dictate how much time I dedicate to the sport. Making money is essential and if climbing gets in the way of that, something will have to change and climbing will become second. Gotta get paid! Don’t want to be a dirt bag climber forever right!?
After Sharma, Nicole and Lamiche, would you like to design a climbing shoe?
It would be great to have strong boulderers collaborate to design a shoe because there are a lot of ideas out there and very few companies making innovative designs. Sportiva is definitely at the top of the shoe design game and consistently come out with new ideas that work. Fred Nicole? Kevin Jorgeson? Jason Kehl? Maybe these guys can come up with the next big thing…
Have you ever shape holds?
No. One day…
What is the "bad-ass" place to climb?
Switzerland, South Africa, anywhere that is adventurous and different.
What is the best development in climbing history?
The car.
What item you don't want to forget to put in your bag before leaving to the crag?
Water
What is the best climbing DVD?
Rampage for the history and King Lines for taking it to the next level.
Cookies or chips?
Cookies
Beer or wine?
Wine
Do you consider yourself as a pro climber?
Yes, anyone who gets gear for free and works for or within the industry is considered a pro climber to me. Very few people are making a living off of just climbing professionally. I would like to think that climbing pays the bills but it doesn’t. One day maybe…
What is your graduation status?
I just recently graduated from Appalachian State University in Boone, North Carolina with a Masters degree in Technology.
Crimps, slopes or pinch?
SLOPERS!
Describe a memorable moment in you climbing experience.
I am obsessed with consistency. When I have those moments when I realize that I am climbing the way that I want to be and it hits me that all the work has paid off, I am happy.
What else than climbing do you like to do?
I shoot photos and video for loudethan11.com, design, set routes, ride my bike, and travel as much as possible.
Any advises or suggestions?
Having the right attitude and not getting a big head can make you climb better and will open up doors. Chasing grades, starting shit with other climbers, and being a jerk will not make you a better climber…
Can you tell me more too about your passion for photography/video,your project: Louder Than Eleven and your climber crew (you Webb, Hork, Schaal, Draughn, Voges, etc)?
Louder Than 11's mission is to grow the sport of rock climbing by producing entertainment that captivates audiences and engages them directly through LT11 ensemble blogs and promotes the outdoor industry with creative advertising. Louder Than 11 is an amazing outlet for me to express myself through photography and video. It’s also a great way for me to get all of my friends involved and showcase some of the bouldering talents in the areas I visit. I live with Nate Draughn and set with Jonny Hork so I climb with those guys all the time, Jimmy Webb and Brion Voges are good friends from back home in the Southeast. Those guys are so strong! There are so many good boulderers out there these days, its kind of ridiculous. Living in Colorado has been fantastic so far and it really is the center of the universe for strong climbers in the States. You don’t have to look very hard for good people that climb hard and want to go out to the boulders all the time. It’s quite refreshing.
Thanks!
Jon Glassberg
Photos: From Jon Glassberg's collection
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