STIKKIT - Escalade de bloc

We are back with a new interview.  This time we present you Matt Stark.  The man behind DeadPointMag.com

What model and brand was your 1st climbing shoes?
LaSportiva Megas. It was a mid high board lasted shoe that was 4 sizes smaller than my street shoe.

What is the best place in the world for bouldering?
Hueco will always have my heart, although Font is a magical place
In how many country did you go to climb?
Only three. I could never afford international travel.

Where and why did you start climbing?
I started climbing in Charlotte, NC back in 1990. I worked at an outdoor store and some of my co-workers climbed. Climbing started out as something cool and different to try but I quickly got hooked.

Have you ever take part of Climbing World Cup?
Nope. I was a route setter for the two Petzl Rock Comps here in the states and for the 06 ABS Nationals, but I never experienced a World Cup.

What do you think about bouldering as sport in Olympic Games?
I think it would be great for the sport in general and the athletes involved. I think if clothing companies and climbers could create a stylish image that kids could relate to we could see an explosion in climbing popularity.

Do you often climb in gym?
I was a professional route setter for 13 years. Now I live at the New River Gorge in West Virginia. I seldom step indoors to climb now.

Did you ever train for a specific project?
No, not for a specific project. I mean, I would spend months on the stacks (campus board), or ARC train to increase endurance, but I never took a project that seriously.

Who do you admire?
Lynn Hill and my father.
I admire Lynn for being in the game for so long, and my father for giving me a role model to aspire to become.

What was the last book you read?
Native Tongue by Carl Hiassen

What music do you listen?
Do you want a complete list? I have an eclectic taste. I listen to everything from Damian Rice and Glenn Hansard to Silversun Pickups or some Pixies to Metallica and Suicidal Tendencies. Did you expect me to say, Brian Adams? Ok, I listen to Brian Adams too.

What do you think about solo climbing?
I think it is bullshit-for me at least, and I don’t give a damn when I hear about people who die soloing. If they are that selfish that they think the risk of becoming a pizza stain at the base of a cliff is worth the glory of soloing, then I don’t have any use for them.

What is a highball for you? At what height it begins to be a highball?
I think 20 feet is getting into the highball arena. It could be shorter if the landing is worse I guess.

Was your progression fast or does it takes years?
You ask as if I truly progressed to be anything above average- I didn’t. I worked my ass off for years to become as strong as I could. When I was 18 I went from 205lbs (93kilos) to being 146 lbs (66kilos) in three months. Loosing that weight helped me the most. Of course, now I am 36 and a lot of the weight has come back.

Did you take part of a specific training to help your progression?
I think most climbers train to some degree. I may have taken it to extreme at some points, but my training was for general fitness. I followed the writing of Dale Goddard and Udo Newman in their book Performance Rock Climbing. That book was my bible.

What do you like to heat?
I like to cook and now that I am older I appreciate good food.

What is your best meal in a crag?
Peanuts

Do you plan to climb all your life?
I am having shoulder surgery this spring. It is going to be a long recovery, but I do plan on recovering and continuing to climb.

Have you ever shape holds?
Yeah and I still have the foam in my storage shed. I guess I should pass those shapes on to someone.

What is the "bad-ass" place to climb?
The Red River Gorge is pretty “bad” ass for sport climbing. I would go on a limb and say it is the best in the US. As far as “dad” ass, I will have to make a few puppies before I can say.

What is the best developments in climbing history?
Belay techniques and auto locking devices and kernmantle ropes

What item you don't want to forget to put in your bag before leaving to the crag?
The keys to my car.

What is the best climbing DVD?
The Sharp End.

Cookies or chips?
Cookies

Beer or wine?
Wine

Do you consider yourself as a pro climber?
Hell no!

What is your graduation status?
I went to college for two years before leaving to go on a road trip

Crimps, slopes or pinch?
Slopers

Describe a memorable moment in you climbing experience.
Oddly, the most memorable experience has been sharing my love of climbing with the kids I coached while working in a gym.

What else than climbing do you like to do?
Running Dead Point Magazine has taken up a huge part of my life. It requires my constant attention. Aside from that, I snowboard some, I surf when I can, and I sometimes mountain bike and fish.

Any advises or suggestions?
Remember, we climb small rocks. So, stop taking this “sport” so seriously.