STIKKIT - Escalade de bloc

L'Autrichien Bernhard Schwaiger frappe encore une fois de plus avec la FA d'un vieux projet à Saalachtal (Autriche), soit "Dust Devil" (V15-16 soit 8C/+).  Ce problème qui se situe dans un dévers prononcé est composé de 10 mouvements et devient l'un des problèmes les plus difficiles de la planète.

Bernhard n'est pas un inconnue des problèmes de haut niveau.  Nous l'avons vu dans le passé avec des répétitions telle que dans "Memento", "Anam Cara", etc.  Pour vous donner une bonne idée de la puissance de ce grimpeur, je vous invite à visiter sa carte de 8a.nu.

Sur le site de la famille Schwaiger (lui et son frère son grimpeur, un peu comme les Nicole), Bernhard a donné ses impressions sur ce problème et sur toute l'histoire qui l'entoure. Comme le texte original est en allemand, je me suis permis de trouver une traduction en anglais et de vous l'offir ici.  Je sais que le tout ne sera pas parfait, mais je crois que le tout sera sûrement plus facile à comprendre que la version originale.

Berni about his latest creation in the high-end:
"DUST DEVIL (Smaller Hurricane)" Fb 8C (+), Saalachtal, Austria

Already some years ago I suddenly stumble more or less by chance - my "nose" for blocks made me driven to this place - on this in the middle of a cut is - the Federal Forestry thankfully - homemade large boulder. From three sides, I am not very pleased - my nose said, but forces me to travel around the block and when I turn around the corner, hit me like a flash. "Wos is do los often? Are Deppert eh ..." Unbelievable! a 30 - 50 ° overhanging with handles very poorly stocked, a ship ähneldes relatively smooth Kalkschild. After a few minutes in the truest sense of the word "under the microscope taking" I have a couple of tiny handles - even the awkward lie to each other - where you deal with brutal power could possibly hold, an option "zusammengesponnen" how This "monster" could somehow defeat ...

Far away?

A few days later, I do not anymore and I have to try, because if anything goes. A few minutes later, I must state that I almost never take off from the ground - somehow, the handles so funny that I did not get enough pressure points. "Jo Oida ...!?" Stamped as a future music and likelihood of distant vision I leave the block for like turns out to be a long time ...

More Power!

After my successful summer 2007 with the success in Memento, I am full of self-confidence. In October I am going with the idea "because i can look again - the line is ja voi cool" to this block. After cleaning and mark the handles do I for the first time since 3 years hand on the block. The self-confidence and more power, which I in the years and months previously acquired pays itself in any case. I create at least almost all trains on a "slimmed-down" version, the link by holding the overhang hochzieht - also not easy and quite Pressig. The direct line through the overhang remains a logical idea - the temperatures would have to probably be cooler.
A week later, I create the Durchstieg the left, simpler version: "BOILING POINT" still around even Fb 8B / + ...

Mentally down!

A few days later, losing a very good and close friend of us tragically in a traffic accident - fully in the life hereafter, straight forward planning with houses, marriages, etc. - yet her young life at the age of only 23 years! The whole thing is pretty close to me and throws me vorallem mentally quite off track. I climb and train, but somehow the head with the whole idea where else ...
The weeks and then the December and January are very erratic and wettermäßig leave a consistent work on a project not to - again and again rain and thus wet rocks ...

A New!

In February the weather is finally better and I also have my battery is fully charged again. I will now know whether the direct line for me is possible or not! In cool temperatures, I have about an hour after a solution to the sequence through the middle of the overhang found - when it gets pretty brutal and zach is Pressig.
The next time you visit it, I create the line, with its 10 lines divided into three sequences durchzuklettern. The next time I have come with only one off the very top. "JAWOI!" A huge increase and only a matter of time before ...

The line is dead?

The next visit, and his attempts lost super - I'm actually on the way to Durchstieg, let the first crux behind me and have the second-Crux Move already behind me, when I have to convert the foot for the next train from the crucial step for the wegrutschte left foot. SH. . ! I propose to me so at the knee and that I only after ten press up and a little breathing herumhumpeln can. Here I discover that I not only walk weggerutscht, but the whole step away. Now not only the only step for the second crux, but also the crucial handle for the first Crux! Where previously a 5 mm small Leist Chen, is now only one bead, the best, as miserable Seitgriff can be used. "Now it's nimma eh!"
The breakpoints, which are still left, are now so bad that even the first Crux Kracher is a real - there has been a lot of fit, so the train to work - the second crux is also dramatically more difficult, because you are now in the tiny and abschüsssigen handles virtually hochhangeln needs and a brutal train are now two. So extreme insgsamt three trains spread over 10 moves, while the remaining 7 trains will also be very Pressig and abdrängend are ...

Much harder!

So the line and especially the difficult climb through safe again - from the grip before the outbreak of suspected Fb 8B + / 8C is now a fairly safe 8C - where the now suggests ...
A week later, I make some tests and create it again from the first Crux away the remaining trains behind me and to fall only in the middle of the second key sequence rather angepumpt - makes the muscles in the Pressig trains still too much, because each handle fully zugeschraubt be. A few minutes later I Hächler like a Rennhund ...

Two days later, my muscles seem a bit on the - very unusually high and prolonged exposure to have used - and I fall (from standing start), although again at the second crux. But not necessarily just because I'm somewhat angepumpt, but because a little bit of luck is missing, the key grip and to translate the second-Crux Move to this post.
Followed by a bad phase. Unfortunately it is waiting for good conditions: (...

Closed?

When the conditions around the Easter time "dry" to prevent storm damage and an associated multi roadblock a trip to the area of the block! "Does not", it must wait again: ((...

Even more?

Only a year later, the Easter period - a few days after my grandmother had been buried, is the motivation for this part again entbrandt. In the meantime, I have the "test piece" Anam Cara (even with its brutal individual moves) can be repeated, and also some "not so easy" parts herziehen can. The power and shape, are probably as good as no longer ...
The first visit to this long "abstinence" promises, although there are already far too warm (summer already sent for this time a bit too early foretaste), quite a bit. I can very quickly all trains in the upper part, and sometimes combine. Two days later, I create the "standing start" of this line - for sure at least Fb 8B - but the whole problem (including seat-off) with direct entry to the trains, yet feels very brutally at ...
Two days later, I'm a bissl surprised that I like something herumprobieren once the "direct" Start Moves Headquarters creates. When trying to come to the same, until I fell on the last serious train - a great success - I know I can climb through. If only the grip a little better ...

Explode!

After a day of rest, I feel equal to explode (in a loud force?) - I must get rid of anything, it seems!
I wait until the evening hours - the sun has already disappeared behind the horizon - the rock is still so heated it, despite the cool air temperature, grippmäßig is not possible, the first two trains to be considered:
Half an hour later did I, at least my skin brought to optimum operating temperature, and the rock has cooled a bit - I will try again: Is the first move shows that the flu is better now - although I must give everything, to dranzubleiben. In the following lines, I pop the handles also full and permanent 'seemingly stuck. Suddenly, before the crux, in the closing until now always been, I get this inexplicable, fascinating and indescribable floating feeling - the feeling of almost weightlessness: Trains, which would normally everything can suddenly, if at all possible, at least on the subjective impression, something controlled. Even the otherwise durchstiegesverhindernde Pump and after the crux remains off - VOI COOL! Only minutes after the show that I've been the longest in the rock rid Power, hautmäßig in some places literally to the last shreds on the war ... "

Berni Schwaiger

PS: "For me, certainly one of the heaviest boulder that I'm ever climbed, because it features three extremely heavy (distributed at the beginning and the upper part of the Boulders) and the other seven moves really demanding. Subjectively seen with other "reference" - Bouldering compared Fb 8C sure whether even more (or even less - perhaps this is the thing I simply do not;)?), As is always the future! "