Dernièrement, nous vous avons parlé de l'autrichien Bernhard Schwaiger et de sa réalisation de "Hurricane" (V15/8c). Nous vous avions dirigé vers le site de frères Schwaiger pour en apprendre plus sur cette ligne. Le gros hic par contre, c'est pas tout le monde qui sait lire l'allemand. Alors Berni a bien voulu nous faire la traduction en anglais. Ce déjà beaucoup mieux.
"HURRICANE (Orkan) " Fb 8C(?), Birgkar, Austria
The line itself is actually logical and clear since the first sight in the autumn of 2008 - but definitely also very difficult and possibly only to be solved in the far future...
The first attempts trying to do any moves fail (as it was so often in the past with other projects) - actually, only with great difficulty I can hold on the problem at one part - "Well, I guess I need to get stronger then"...
Little Progress?
In the meantime I’m concentrating (with success) to other not so easy projects - therefore some time goes by until I return to try this problem again. A detailed cleaning of the boulder, which not so long ago was standing in dirt and sand with this part of it - before it collapsed under irrigation, brings two holds, at least the upper sequence should be possible now.
The attempt to solve these moves is successful, but shows that this part itself needs some effort...
After a long abstinence, partly because of the weather, and in which I can do other problems such as "Dust Devil", I relatively quickly succeed in the standing start (the upper part) of this line. The moves of the lower part, however, are still unsolved and mysterious ...
Don’t worry, it will sort itself out!
Actually I exactly know how the first three moves should have to work, anything else is impossible! But you must use enormous body tension and have to be very accurate with your fingers and feet, to have any chance of doing the moves separately. Moreover, presumably the body has to get adapted to the special requirements of these moves - Do not worry, it will sort itself out...
After some time, after trying again and again to do the lower moves - I've (finally) found a way that makes these moves possible - each move separately – nevertheless awesome, that the moves are possible now...
Brilliant - Lower sequence works!
On my next visit, the conditions are as good as never before - the rock is “dry as a bone” and a slight wind makes the already very warm air at least a little bit cooler. Actually not (yet) very much focused, I do my first attempt, where – to my surprise - I can do the three lower moves and link them together - "What was this, what’s going on here today…?"
This feat should happen another three times in a row - really great!
But there’s one drop of bitterness: Although I first felt having at least a little control about these moves, I couldn’t get into the upper part, i.e. the lower and upper part linking by a tough connection move. HMMM ...
It's possible but the connection is missing!
Also the next couple of days later my attempts fail at the "Link move" to the upper part - "wah he" ...
Logical consequence: At this moment I only work on this special move, in which gravity truly shows her merciless. The move on it’s own is getting better and working more often – but not with the three moves from the bottom...
Training the Single Moves!
At my next visit I make two attempts from the very bottom, but always fail at this "Link move". Then I systematically work on the individual moves and parts of the boulder - so the body (hopefully) gets used to it - then maybe it might work some time.
Worsening conditions and humid weather bring me back to the “ground of reality” and lets me be some kind of awed - only with a lot of effort I can do each move separately. If everything fits and works together, it might work some time...
Was the boulder waiting for me?
The summer weather with temperatures around 25 degrees in the valley "force" me to go to the boulder at about 1400 m above sea level - everywhere else it is probably too warm. Two days earlier it rains very hard, therefore I don’t have any great expectations - to be outside in nature and enjoying the fresh air is the main goal. With a little wind, which already cooled the air a little bit for several times there, at least some bouldering could be possible...
When I’m arriving at the boulder, I'm amazed - today it somehow looks very cool and different than usually - even though objectively, it is certainly exactly the same piece of rock. In addition, after a few minutes the wind begins to blow, as in a wind tunnel - the "cooling" is almost too much – it’s really cold in the shadow of the boulder. It almost seemed as if the boulder and the hurricane-like winds almost were waiting for me...
As fast as never before, and also somewhat surprising for Christina ("... are you already prepared? "), I complete my warm-up before I start my first go - I definitely want to make use of the extremely cool breeze - a few times my pads are blown away by the wind, so that I have to re-position them...
Unfortunately the first attempt ends on the second move - the feet positioned too vague – couldn’t take advantage of the cool breeze...
(Almost) Blown by the Wind - Perfect Timing!
To my surprise, the really unusual strong hurricane-like wind stays. After a short break, I’ll give it a try again: Very calm and breathing deep, I can do and link the first three moves – at the critical "Link move" I try to give my best - with success, I’m able to stick the small sloppy edge - I continue "driven" from my breathing through the next move in which the positioning of the feet is very difficult - at the following long move to a sloppy hold at the edge of the roof, cheered by my girlfriend Christina I try hard again - feels very easy at the moment - the following moves to the top also work somehow – “yeah”...
A few moments later, as I slowly realise how smooth and economically this successful attempt was - what a pleasure it was, the wind suddenly stops and within a few moments it gets a little humid - veeeeery interesting... "
It’s hard to say, how difficult this problem with its 10 moves in very steep terrain on small holds is – future will show! Perhaps Fb 8C - even more or less - not important - we will see ;)...
With no doubt it was a pleasure to me to experience this process and to be able to perform ...
Berni Schwaiger
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