Le jeune grimpeur autrichien (23 ans), Guntram Jörg, semble être dans une grande forme incroyable! Dans le dernier mois, il s'est promené un peu partout en Europe pour réaliser plusieurs belles répétitions.
Lors de son passage à Magic Wood (Suisse), il s'est offert:
"Nana Bianca Stand" (V10), "Small Jack" (V10), "Massive Attack" (V12),"Unendliche Geschichte" (V12) et "The Riverbed" (V14).
Lors de son passage à Silvretta (Autriche) se sont les lignes suivantes qui son tombées sous ses essais:
"Rombuk" (V12), "skiroute Project" (V13), "Charity Bouldern" (V13) et le non moins "Anam Cara" (V15/14) (une semaine après Daniel Wood).
Finalement, lors d'une seule journée, Jörg s'est permis de répéter deux lignes majeures à Brione (Suisse): "Vecchia Leone" (V13) et "General Dissaray" (V13).
Suite à sa répétition d'Anam Cara, voici ses commentaires laissés sur son blog:
After doing all the moves my body felt ready but my mind wasn´t. My wish linking those moves turned into a dream. A dream of having a moment of success.
Anam Cara challenged my life in so many different aspects. It was not only about strength commitment and mind because it tested my love and significance to climbing.
Never i could be shure of winning the fight between me and the rock. It was not even shure that my body could be strong enough to climb in that level.
The day of success.
This day i didn`t want even to try anam cara. My project for the day was an extesion to skiroute4. After some chilling in the sun, I went with my girl Martina and my friends Rudi and Domenique to Anam Cara. While lying under anam cara my fingers got quite cold in the shade and I decided to give it a try
Grabbing some of the small holds felt really nice in the shade. I felt stronger than usual …
Really surprised i fell 3 times at the undercling and i finally recognised that today could be the day. I took all my power and made another go. Like in a dream i woke up setting up for the last move but i went down.My friend Rudi was srceaming “you fucking ideot” and he throwed his climbing shoe at my head. I felt relaxed about that situation falling at the last move because that day it was pure fun climbing on this hard boulder. I took around 5 minutes off sitting at the start of Anam Cara because the sun was getting already into the boulder. Rudi protected with his jacket the boulder that I could grap the holds easily without having the sun directly in my face. One more problem was that it was getting more hot but i was so surprised about myself because i was confinced and chilled in such a situation. I pulled my shoes on and went for it. Again there was a little moment of clearness setting up for the last move but that time I had the last hold perfect and I sticked the last sloper. I could hear Rudi saying “Now you have it, don´t fall” Also i recognized that i was breathing really really hard.The move after the crux i had really smeary fingers but all went perfect. At the moment i was holding the last big hold before the little mantle at the topout i wasn´t really shure what to do and i turned around giving Rudi my fist.
While succeeding and topping out Anam Cara i got everything back i invested: the power, the energy, the time and the love.
Even more i got back: “Knowledge that much more is possible”
Rendez-vous aussi sur le site baboonmaster.com pour en savoir plus.
Photos: Jörg dans le dernier mouvement d'Anam Cara
Crédit: Dominik Hadwiger
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